ICED SLIPPER

The

An Integrated Parametric Design Workflow For 3D Printed High Heel Shoes
2021-2022 Victoria University of Wellington

As a young woman, I have personally had trouble finding high heel shoes in my size or that express my true self. Unfortunately, this trend leads me and others to buy more shoes and/or to return them, until the perfect pair, or the ‘glass slipper’ is found. As a designer, I find the cultural impacts of technological tools fascinating. The integration of technology into our social context can be seen as a delicate task which sparks the idea that as designers, we should integrate ourselves into technology and take control of these unfathomably powerful devices. These personal and professional considerations have inspired me to explore novel approaches to how things are made, why they are made and how the longevity of a product might be improved by catering to every individual.

INTRODUCTION

ABSTRACT

This research project explores ways of configuring parametric software for generative design and additive manufacturing of high heeled shoes. The current cultural and social context suggests fashion is an outlet for individual identity and self-expression. This is particularly relevant for high heel shoes where customisation of fit is critical and adaptability to style and aesthetic considerations is universally applicable. In addition, the traditional methods of high heel shoe manufacture depend on convoluted supply chains, complex assembly and an extensive inventory to accommodate the required range of sizes and the demand of consumerism.

This raises the question, “Can this unwieldy traditional method manufacture, and distribution be streamlined with a combination of generative design and 3D printing for more bespoke and sustainable forms of manufacture?”

In response, the research aims to develop an integrated parametric design workflow for customised 3D printed high heel shoes. It seeks to integrate diverse considerations, such as scanning technologies and style parameters with concepts like design for deconstruction and distributed manufacture to transform the way footwear is designed, manufactured, distributed, and recycled.

The research portfolio will follow two overarching methodologies; Research for Design and Research through Design. It takes inspiration from recent experimental design studies for 3D printed high heels but seeks to combine these with more versatile and sustainable ways of configuring, customising and manufacturing shoes. The generative workflow created in this research is transferable to other products and systems of making.

Key words: Integrated parametric design workflow, high heels, computational design, animation tools, 3D scanning, 3D printing, inventory, customised fit, customised style, systems of making, design for disassembly.

ABSTRACT

BACKGROUND RESEARCH

Computational design is a method that allows for rapid iterative design, a tool that has the potential to be controlled by a customer. Traditional manufacturing follows the process of making a multitude of components which are then transported and constructed using adhesives. This creates an assembly system that is layered with negative side effects such as deconstruction and recycling difficulties (Rensburg et al., 2020). The large scale of inventory raises the issue of transport for such an intensive supply chain. Some studies have suggested 3D printing enables unique benefits for increased freedom in manufacturing (Lin & Chen, 2015). While there are many case studies for 3D printed heels that are conceptual, artistic or high-end limited-edition pieces, only a small number have produced wearable 3D printed heels. A number of these designs are made of mono material which may be easier to recycle but may not have the same performance for style and structure as a traditional shoe. With access to computational software and 3D printing processes, a parametric approach for mass customisation may be a more sustainable solution to address the demands of the contemporary context. This research demonstrates a possible parametric pathway that combines style, size and construction for a new manufacturing and distribution method of high heeled shoes. This technology application gives the ability to produce shoes on demand to fit the customer perfectly, eliminating size restrictions and reducing inventory.

CONCEPT

Design for additive manufacture (DfAM) is a pre-established term to identify the principles of the process. This changes the system of making from the design stage right through to disassembly in the afterlife. This research portfolio aims to demonstrate a new system for the design of high heel shoes. With computational design and manufacturing methods being a key focus for this research, this workflow will be vastly different to that seen in traditional manufacturing of high heels. The scale of inventory will be significantly reduced from mass to on demand production, which may be available in areas near the customer. Digital files can be sent to 3D printers anywhere in the world, making production a locally accessible process which may become more common in the future. Many stages of the traditional manufacturing process can be cut by rationalising materials and constructing the shoe with fewer components. This new system will allow for an elevated level of personal customisation through parametric control. Customisation of products can increase the longevity of a product from personal attachment (Diegel et al., 2010). The desire to express individuality is more prominent in current culture which suggests there is to be a greater degree of style variations across fashion. The marriage of computational design with 3D printing offers an opportunity to cater for this demand. Although sustainability is not the primary focus of this research, the combination of all these considerations may show a route of production that has a much more positive effect on the environment in comparison to traditional methods.

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PARAMETRIC WORKFLOW

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The parametric workflow presents a singular method for integration of fit and style customisation while maintaining the basic structure of a high heel shoe throughout all concepts produced from the workflow. The refined parameters have been rigorously tested to work together. In the developed workflow these can be used together, set to default or in some cases, not at all. A digital last is built using the input of a 3D scan of ones foot, which is then used in the workflow to construct the shoe around. From there, a series of Blender modifiers parametrically build the shoe. The heel height and toe form can be easily adjusted using these modifiers. Parameters for the upper component, Textured by Vector, Framed by Form and Life by Instance, unleash endless possibilities for style variation. These are incorporated into the workflow by using different aspects of the Blender animation software. The final parameter can be used to manipulate the form of the heel component. As a result, two components are produced and can be printed on demand. The combination of the parameters and the capabilities of 3D printing, are what make this workflow unlike traditional processes.

PARAMETRIC WORKFLOW

DIGITAL OUTPUT

The seven refined parameters have been used to create many style variations of high heeled shoes. The approach to creating these concepts were inspired by The Venturi Collection by Robert Venturi and Denise Scott Brown. The collection references past design eras or stylish periods and interprets them in the context of contemporary manufacturing technology. The result is an eclectic collection of chairs – each with their own distinctive character but recognisable as a single family in a visual expression of tradition and technology. In a similar fashion, this research project explores the vast capabilities of parametric design by referencing a variety of iconic moments and trends in design history. While there is significant difference between each design, there remains a common theme making both the Venturi Collection and this research collection easily recognisable as a cohesive design statement.

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DIGITAL OUTPUT

PROTOTYPES

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IMPROVMENTS, EXTENSIONS & RELEVANCE

The closing section of this research project needs to be considered with reference to the original research question; “Can the traditional method of manufacturing and distributing high heels be streamlined through the combination of generative design and 3D printing for a more bespoke and sustainable system of production?” In exploring this question, the project has taken a conceptual and speculative approach that nevertheless manifests itself in tangible design outputs. However, the research also revealed that there are many areas that would be worthy of more in-depth exploration, particularly if the workflow were to be implemented. Software and code: This project focused on utilising Blender software, but with greater time, further softwares could have been explored with a similar design intent. The workflow is somewhat complex to use and to create designs from. Integrating more user-friendly parameters would enable faster iterations and result in a greater range of more developed high heel shoe designs. For example, software like Houdini may have produced additional possibilities. Houdini is well known for the advanced use of special effects (SFX), virtual effects (VFX) and volume database (VDB). Within this, tools can be used to transfer a workflow into a singular parameter for accurate and controlled point manipulation. Hardware and materials: This research is explorative, covering a wide range of topics. Further research could be conducted in a number of areas including exploring 3D printer capabilities and material performance to identify more reliable solutions and certification. Through the final methods used were successful, there may be more efficient or cost-effective additive manufacturing methods. Some processes that are explored in this research are more advanced in certain aspects, whether it was print quality or material performance. However, the perfect process with the ideal combination of the qualities may not yet exist. To realise a product to full production, considerable testing and product evaluation needs to take place, particularly when injury might occur to the user if the product fails. Although this workflow is heavily focused on high heeled shoes, the principles of the research are applicable to other products that share similar production considerations such as structure, custom fit, construction, and style. For example, bespoke, custom, prosthetic limbs would be an area of research that shares many of the same underlying goals. Further examples might include other items of fashion such as flat shoes, bags, clothes, and runway wear. Protective gear and high-performance sportswear are also product categories where customised fit, specialised applications and high-stake expectations align with the associated investment. However, the emergence of digital economy provides perhaps the most exciting and as yet largely unexplored application for digital workflows like this. This could range from design for Non-Fungible Tokens (NFT’s) through to design for Avatar costume in digital worlds such as the Metaverse. Developments with animation software vs industrial software lead more towards virtual or augmented reality. The possibility of aligning distributed manufacturing with distributed autonomous organisations (DAO) would also be worth exploring in the pursuit of more sustainable production.